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Catalog / Fantasy

Little Purple Dragon crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 100 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
14.3 cm
Weirdness
2/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet dragon pattern for a chubby little purple dragon who sits up with a big open-mouthed smile and shiny eyes. This amigurumi dragon has a lilac belly with embroidered plate lines, golden horns, golden triangle spikes along its back and tail, and two padded lilac wings. It is crocheted in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, uses 14 mm safety eyes, has the mouth and belly lines embroidered, and sits about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall. The page gives the full row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and an interactive 3D model, so you can check every piece before you sew it on.

How to crochet the Little Purple Dragon

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 18 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Horn ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Tail, Wing ×2, Spike ×6 (104 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 14 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 8 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 92 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 19 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.9 cm at the widest, 7.1 cm long; 29 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.2 × 3 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 7 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With lilac: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 45° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 6 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3.1 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  1. Of these: on the head — 2; on the body — 2; on the tail — 2. Flat motif — triangle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 1.4 × 2.4 cm; 4 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R19) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 22 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: between rounds 18 and 19, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (28 st); the seam covers rounds 14–22 of the head, about 10 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Horn → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 4–7 of the head, about 4 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 15, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (6 st against 6 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 14–16 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points down and forward.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (9 st against 9 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 4–8 of the body, about 9 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: between rounds 4 and 5, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (24 st); the seam covers rounds 3–12 of the body, about 13 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Wing → body (make 2). Centre: in round 17, 6.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (19 st); the seam covers rounds 13–19 of the body, about 6 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the body, both layers sewn down. It points outward and backward and up.
    1. Spike (no. 1) → head. Centre: in round 9, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 9–12 of the head, about 1 st wide. It points backward and slightly up.
    1. Spike (no. 2) → head. Centre: in round 15, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 14–16 of the head, about 1 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Spike (no. 3) → body. Centre: in round 14, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 11–14 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Spike (no. 4) → body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 9–11 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Spike (no. 5) → tail. Centre: in round 9, on the centre top line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers round 13 of the tail, about 1 st wide. It points up.
    1. Spike (no. 6) → tail. Centre: in round 4, on the centre top line. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its foundation chain (the longest straight edge); the seam covers rounds 2–8 of the tail, about 6 st wide. It points up and slightly backward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the head): in round 15, 10 st apart (count along round 15: about 5.1 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Blush about 11 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 18 and 19, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.
    • Embroidery in plum thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, 1 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark red thread, a triangle about 14 mm wide and 8.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, on the centre bottom line .
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in rose thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 7 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line.
    • Embroidery in plum thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 11 and 12, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in plum thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 14 and 15, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in plum thread (on the body), straight stitches through: (between rounds 17 and 18, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0