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Catalog / Fantasy

Round Santa Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 72 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
9.1 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet santa ornament pattern: a Round Santa Ornament amigurumi, about 9 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2 mm hook. A ball-shaped Santa head with a fluffy white beard, rosy cheeks and a red hat with a white brim and pom-pom, finished with a gold hanging loop. You need about 70 m of yarn: 35 m white, 20 m red, 5 m peach, 5 m gold and 5 m rose. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Hang it on the Christmas tree, tie it to a gift or give it as a small stocking filler. The 3D model spins so you can check every side, and the pattern goes round by round.

How to crochet the Round Santa Ornament

Intermediate · 9 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 10 pieces in rounds: Head ball, Hat, Pom-pom, Beard, Moustache half ×2, Nose, Eyebrow ×2, Hanging loop (72 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 8 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 68 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.8 cm at the widest, 5.2 cm long; 29 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  3. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.4 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 70° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's right on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right <!-- st 6.75 right -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 2 to round 7, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 5 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat oval about 7.7 × 5 cm; 9 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 4 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 11.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat oval about 2.5 × 1.6 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 5.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.3 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat oval about 1.7 × 1.1 cm; 2 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 0.8 cm long; 3 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 20 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Head ball is the base; its magic ring is at the top.
    1. Hat → head ball. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew around the opening (60 st); the seam covers round 10 of the head ball (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Pom-pom → hat. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–4 of the hat (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Beard → head ball. Centre: in round 24, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 18–29 of the head ball (all the way round). Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 8 mm thick).
    1. Moustache half → head ball (make 2). Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 17–22 of the head ball, about 7 st wide.
    1. Nose → head ball. Centre: between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 15–18 of the head ball, about 3 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Eyebrow → head ball (make 2). Centre: in round 13, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 11–15 of the head ball, about 6 st wide.
    1. Hanging loop → pom-pom. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 6 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 6–7 of the pom-pom, about 6 st wide. It points up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the head ball): in round 15, 10 st apart (count along round 15: about 4.8 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Strap (on the head ball): with white, ch 86 (≈ 19.3 cm); for a firmer strap sl st back along it. Sew it along (between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre back line ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 20 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 10 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 10 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 20 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre back line ), catching it every 2–3 ch.
    • Blush about 9 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head ball, both sides): between rounds 16 and 17, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour pink.

    Head ball · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0