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Catalog / Fantasy

Sleepy Santa Sleigh with a Mouse crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 102 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
5.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet sleigh pattern: a Sleepy Santa Sleigh with a Mouse amigurumi, about 5 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2 mm hook. It is a red sleigh on curled gold runners, with a sleeping Santa in a striped hat, a green and a blue present and a little grey mouse climbing in over the side. You need about 80 m of yarn: 20 m red, 10 m gold, 10 m white, 10 m dark red, 5 m green, 5 m blue, 5 m pink, 5 m grey, 5 m peach and 5 m rose. Plan on roughly 3 hours. A cosy little Christmas scene for the mantel or the tree shelf, and a fun gift for anyone who loves Santa stories. Spin the 3D model to see the mouse hiding at the side and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Sleepy Santa Sleigh with a Mouse

Advanced · 5 cm tall · about 3 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Sleigh body, White trim, Runner ×2, Santa, Pompom, Nose, Present 1, Present 2, Mouse, Mouse ear ×2 (102 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 12 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 15 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.5 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 72 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 8.7 × 5.7 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 15 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs front to back; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With dark red: ch 12.
  3. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 24 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 8 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 60° around round 20<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 20, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 19 and 21 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.7 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 16 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.5 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 12 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. colours of round 1 in order: 1 sc in green, 1 sc in gold, 2 sc in green, 1 sc in gold, 1 sc in green
  3. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  4. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.5 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 12 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. colours of round 1 in order: 1 sc in blue, 1 sc in white, 2 sc in blue, 1 sc in white, 1 sc in blue
  3. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  4. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 4 circles — 2 as below and 2 plain in pink (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 3 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 70 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Sleigh body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. White trim → sleigh body. Put the white trim around the sleigh body: the chain ring (78 st) lies along the edge of the last round of the sleigh body, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the sleigh body all round and let the rest lie free on it. The fabric hangs from the ring and lies along the sleigh body below it.
    1. Runner (left) → sleigh body. Centre: in round 4, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 3–13 of the sleigh body, about 25 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Runner (right) → sleigh body. Centre: in round 4, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 3–13 of the sleigh body, about 25 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Santa → sleigh body. Centre: in round 3, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 2–15 of the sleigh body, about 33 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 10 mm.
    1. Pompom → Santa. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches round 16 of the Santa (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Nose → Santa. Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 10–11 of the Santa, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Present 1 → sleigh body. Centre: in round 3, 3 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 1–15 of the sleigh body, about 26 st wide. It points up.
    1. Present 2 → sleigh body. Centre: in round 3, 3 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 1–15 of the sleigh body, about 26 st wide. It points up.
    1. Mouse → sleigh body. Centre: in round 12, 21.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 12–15 of the sleigh body, about 6 st wide. It points up and slightly outward. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Mouse ear (left) → mouse. Centre: in round 7, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 2 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 7–8 of the mouse, about 1 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Mouse ear (right) → mouse. Centre: in round 7, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 3 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 6–7 of the mouse, about 1 st wide. It points up and slightly inward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the Santa) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 11 and 12, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 12, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 5–5 mm (on the mouse): in round 6, 3 st apart (count along round 6: about 1.5 st each side of the centre front line).

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0