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Tardigrade Water Bear receita de crochê

  • Equilibrada matematicamenteVerificado por script: nas 49 carreiras os aumentos e diminuições batem com o número de pontos.

pelo gerador de receitasAnimais

Dificuldade
1/3
Tempo
~3 h
Tamanho
8.4 cm
Esquisitice
1/5
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PDF A4: materiais, cada carreira com caixinha, montagem e rostinho

Free crochet tardigrade pattern: a Tardigrade Water Bear amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A chubby beige water bear with darker tan stripes, four pairs of stubby legs with tiny claws, a round caramel tube mouth, little dot eyes and peachy cheeks. You need about 75 m of yarn: 55 m beige, 10 m tan, 5 m caramel and 5 m blush. Plan on roughly 3 hours. It makes a fun gift for science fans and a quirky desk buddy, and you can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

Como fazer Tardigrade Water Bear de crochê

Para iniciantes · 8 cm de altura · cerca de 3 h · fio DK · agulha de 2.5 mm

  1. Faça as 12 partes em carreiras: Tardigrade body, Tube mouth, Stubby leg ×8, Cheek ×2 (49 carreiras no total).
  2. Encha e monte em 7 etapas; cada uma acende no modelo 3D onde a parte vai.
  3. Faça o rostinho: olhos de segurança por carreira e ponto, ou bordados para menores de 3 anos.

Cada carreira com o número de pontos está na aba Receita abaixo e no PDF grátis para imprimir.

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Amostra

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Como é feito

Carreiras contínuas em espiral. Não feche as carreiras. Suba o marcador a cada carreira.

Partes

Idioma da receitaenrudefrBaixar PDF grátis para imprimirPDF
0 de 38 carreiras feitas

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 9.9 cm long; 34 rounds.
  2. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  4. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  5. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  6. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  7. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  8. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  9. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  10. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  11. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R25).
  12. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R28).
  13. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R29).
  14. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  15. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2.6 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–5 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 23 mm across.<!-- (dish 70 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the tardigrade body): in round 31, 7 st apart (count along round 31: about 3.6 st each side of the centre top line).
  • Satin stitch (on the tube mouth): in dark tan thread, a oval about 5 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .

Tardigrade body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
  • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
  • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abreviações

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done