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Catalog / Animals

Tardigrade Water Bear crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 49 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~3 h
Size
8.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet tardigrade pattern: a Tardigrade Water Bear amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A chubby beige water bear with darker tan stripes, four pairs of stubby legs with tiny claws, a round caramel tube mouth, little dot eyes and peachy cheeks. You need about 75 m of yarn: 55 m beige, 10 m tan, 5 m caramel and 5 m blush. Plan on roughly 3 hours. It makes a fun gift for science fans and a quirky desk buddy, and you can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Tardigrade Water Bear

Beginner-friendly · 8 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Tardigrade body, Tube mouth, Stubby leg ×8, Cheek ×2 (49 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 38 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 9.9 cm long; 34 rounds.
  2. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  4. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  5. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  6. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  7. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  8. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  9. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  10. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  11. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R25).
  12. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R28).
  13. Change to beige (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R29).
  14. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  15. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2.6 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–5 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 23 mm across.<!-- (dish 70 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Tardigrade body is the base; its magic ring is at the back.
    1. Tube mouth → tardigrade body. Centre: in round 34, on the centre bottom line . Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 32–34 of the tardigrade body (around the centre of the last round). It points forward.
    1. Stubby leg (no. 1) → tardigrade body (make 2). Centre: in round 27, 15.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 25–28 of the tardigrade body, about 3 st wide. It points down and outward.
    1. Stubby leg (no. 2) → tardigrade body (make 2). Centre: in round 22, 8.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, across the rounds: rounds 20–24 of the tardigrade body, about 1 st wide. It points down and outward.
    1. Stubby leg (no. 3) → tardigrade body (make 2). Centre: in round 17, 8.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, across the rounds: rounds 15–19 of the tardigrade body, about 1 st wide. It points down and outward.
    1. Stubby leg (no. 4) → tardigrade body (make 2). Centre: in round 11, 17.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, across the rounds: rounds 9–13 of the tardigrade body, about 2 st wide. It points down and outward.
    1. Cheek → tardigrade body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 31 and 32, 5.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 30–33 of the tardigrade body, about 3 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10 mm (on the tardigrade body): in round 31, 7 st apart (count along round 31: about 3.6 st each side of the centre top line).
    • Satin stitch (on the tube mouth): in dark tan thread, a oval about 5 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, on the centre front line .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the stubby leg) (2: one on each stubby leg; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in dark tan thread, a oval about 2.6 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 2, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right .

    Tardigrade body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0