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Catalog / Fantasy

Coiled Christmas Dragon crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 133 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
13.3 cm
Weirdness
2/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet dragon pattern: a Coiled Christmas Dragon amigurumi, about 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A green dragon curled in a coil, with gold horns, red wings, a striped scarf, a tiny Santa hat and a white snowflake puff at its mouth. You need about 115 m of yarn: 60 m green, 25 m red, 10 m cream, 10 m white, 5 m gold and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. It makes a cosy desk buddy or a gift for dragon fans who also love Christmas. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Coiled Christmas Dragon

Advanced · 13 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 12 pieces in rounds: Coiled body, Head and neck, Snout, Horn ×2, Santa hat, Pompom, Wing ×2, Snowflake, Cheek ×2 (164 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 94 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.7 cm at the widest, 34.2 cm long; 89 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre back line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. colours of round 1 in order: 1 sc in green, 1 sc in cream, 2 sc in green
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Bend ≈ 480° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds --><!-- coil 2 pitch 16 -->. The piece rolls up into a spiral (about 1.3 turns) from round 12 to its end: after stuffing, roll it up starting from the last round (round 89) toward the side that faces backward on the finished toy; the turns lie close, each wider than the last. From the last round back to round 12 tack neighbouring turns together with 2–3 stitches of matching yarn every 3–4 rounds and hide the yarn inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 7.7 × 6.1 cm at the widest, 7.2 cm long; 24 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the top of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. With green: ch 6.
  3. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  4. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  5. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 10 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 6.6 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Bend ≈ 115° around round 9<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's right on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 9, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right <!-- st 3.55 right -->). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 7 to round 11, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 4 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Flat motif — half circle (worked in turned rows, one layer of fabric), about 4 × 7.5 cm; 8 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Flat motif — star (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 3.2 × 2.8 cm; 2 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Coiled body is the base; its magic ring is on the toy's right side.
    1. Head and neck → coiled body. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 53–60 of the coiled body, about 6 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Snout → head and neck. Centre: in round 14, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 10–16 of the head and neck, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Horn → head and neck (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 3–6 of the head and neck, about 3 st wide. It points up and outward.
    1. Santa hat → head and neck. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew around the opening (48 st); the seam covers rounds 8–13 of the head and neck (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Pompom → Santa hat. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–3 of the Santa hat, about 2 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Scarf tail (worked flat in turned rows): with red, ch 6; Row 1: starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 5 sc, ch 1, turn (5). Rows 2–9: 5 sc, ch 1, turn (5). Fasten off. The strip is about 2 cm long. Lay it along the curve of the head and neck, running side to side: its middle in round 23, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ; its ends in round 23, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left and in round 23, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Pin, then sew along both long edges.
    1. Wing → head and neck (make 2). Centre: in round 19, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its straight edge (the row ends); the seam covers rounds 8–18 of the head and neck, about 4 st wide. It points outward and slightly up and slightly backward.
    1. Snowflake → snout. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Stand the motif on its edge and sew it on by its lowest edge; the seam covers rounds 1–2 of the snout, about 2 st wide. It points down and inward and slightly forward. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Cheek → head and neck (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–16 of the head and neck, about 3 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head and neck): in round 12, 8 st apart (count along round 12: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the snout): in black thread, a oval about 8 mm wide and 5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the snout), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the snout) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
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    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0