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Catalog / Fantasy

Cute Krampus crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 90 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Fantasy
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
13.3 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet krampus pattern: a Cute Krampus amigurumi, about 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A chubby black Krampus with an amber-eyed face, curved cream horns, a long red tongue and a gold bell on a red strap. You need about 90 m of yarn: 55 m ebony, 10 m dark grey, 5 m red, 10 m cream, 5 m gold and 5 m dark red. Plan on roughly 3 hours. It is a friendly little guest for the holiday shelf or tree, and a fun gift for fans of winter folklore. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern as you crochet.

How to crochet the Cute Krampus

Intermediate · 13 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 14 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Horn ×2, Tail, Red strap, Bell, Hanging loop (90 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 74 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 17 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to ebony (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 7 cm long; 28 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Change to ebony (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R23).
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 3.7 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 32 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 125° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces backward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, 0.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 0.62 left -->). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 7 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 60° around round 4<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 4, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 3 and 5 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.9 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R17) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 22 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 1.6 cm.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 6, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (19 st); the seam covers rounds 3–11 of the head, about 6 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward and up.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 9, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body), across the rounds: rounds 7–11 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Foot → body (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 3–6 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Horn → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 4 and 5, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 3–6 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Long tongue (worked flat in turned rows): with red, ch 4; Row 1: starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3). Rows 2–14: 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3). Fasten off. The strip is about 1.2 cm long. Lay it along the curve of the head, running side to side: its middle in round 22, on the centre front line ; its ends in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right and in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Pin, then sew along both long edges.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 4, 0.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left . Sew around the opening (8 st); the seam covers rounds 4–5 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Red strap → body. Put the red strap around the body: the chain ring (38 st) lies along the edge of the last round of the body, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the body all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Bell → body. Centre: in round 14, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–17 of the body, about 4 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 3 mm thick).
    1. Hanging loop → head. Centre: in round 2, on the centre back line. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 3 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 1–2 of the head, about 6 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the head): between rounds 15 and 16, 8 st apart (count along round 15: about 4.2 st each side of the centre front line). Iris amber #e8a526.
    • Satin stitch (on the head): in pink thread, a triangle about 6 mm wide and 4.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line.
    • Satin stitch (on the head): in dark red thread, a oval about 12 mm wide and 4 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line .
    • Fringe (on the head): cut 10 pieces of yarn (ebony) about 44 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 6, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 7, on the centre front line -> in round 6, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left, evenly spaced. Trim to about 12 mm.

    Body · R1–R4

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V×
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0