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Catalog / Animals

Piglet in a Green Jumper crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 61 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
10 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Piglet from Winnie-the-Pooh by A. A. Milne (1926), a classic character now in the public domain, as a cute crochet amigurumi: the small shy pink piglet of the book in a green jumper. About 10 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF.

How to crochet the Piglet in a Green Jumper

Beginner-friendly · 10 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 10 pieces in rounds: Body in a jumper, Head, Jumper neckband, Snout, Ear ×2, Arm in a sleeve ×2, Leg ×2 (61 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 8 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 49 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 15 rounds.
  2. Change to jumper (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Change to jumper dark (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  4. Change to jumper (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.8 cm long; 24 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.4 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.5 × 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.3 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With snout: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 2.6 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 23 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Change to jumper (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.9 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

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    1. Body in a jumper is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body in a jumper. Stuff the body in a jumper firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body in a jumper's opening (R15) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 17 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 14 mm.
    1. Jumper neckband → body in a jumper. Put the jumper neckband around the body in a jumper: the chain ring (42 st) lies along round 14.5 of the body in a jumper, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the body in a jumper all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Snout → head. Centre: between rounds 15 and 16, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 14–17 of the head, about 4 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (13 st); the seam covers rounds 3–8 of the head, about 6 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Arm in a sleeve → body in a jumper (make 2). Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 12–13 of the body in a jumper, about 3 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Leg → body in a jumper (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 2–4 of the body in a jumper, about 4 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Curly tail: with pale pink, ch 13 (≈ 40 mm), then sl st back along the chain starting in the 2nd ch from hook. Sew its start to the body in a jumper: in round 6, on the centre back line.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head): between rounds 13 and 14, 8 st apart (count along round 13: about 3.8 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the snout) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in dark thread, a oval about 2.2 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
    • Embroidery in dark thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 17 and 18, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 17 and 18, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in dark thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 10, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 10 and 11, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 16, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.

    Body in a jumper · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0