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Catalog / Animals

Tigger the Bouncy Tiger crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 90 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
12 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Tigger from The House at Pooh Corner by A. A. Milne (1928), a classic character now in the public domain, as a cute crochet amigurumi: the bouncy orange tiger of the book with black stripes and a curly striped tail. About 12 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF.

How to crochet the Tigger the Bouncy Tiger

Intermediate · 12 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 10 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Leg ×2, Arm ×2, Springy tail (90 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 8 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 77 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 5.1 cm long; 18 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.4 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 28 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.3 × 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 7.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–4 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 25 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre top line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 7.2 cm long; 20 rounds.
  2. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  5. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  6. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  7. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  8. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  9. Change to orange (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 300° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 8 rounds --><!-- coil 2 -->. The piece rolls up into a spiral (about 0.8 turns) from round 12 to its tip: after stuffing, roll it up starting from the tip (round 1) toward the side that faces up on the finished toy; the turns lie close, each wider than the last. From the tip to round 12 tack neighbouring turns together with 2–3 stitches of matching yarn every 3–4 rounds and hide the yarn inside.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R18) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 20 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 1.6 cm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: between rounds 18 and 19, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (26 st); the seam covers rounds 15–21 of the head, about 11 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 7, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 2 st of round 4, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 6–8 of the head, about 2 st wide. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 3–5 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 9 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: round 14 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Springy tail → body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 8–9 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points backward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head): between rounds 15 and 16, 8 st apart (count along round 15: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in nose thread, a oval about 10 mm wide and 6.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
    • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line).
    • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 18 and 19, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in mouth thread, a triangle about 16 mm wide and 9 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line .
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in tongue thread, a oval about 7 mm wide and 3.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 3, on the centre bottom line.

    Body · R1–R4

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V×
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0