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Catalog / Animals

Baby Reindeer crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 125 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
14.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet reindeer pattern for a sitting brown baby reindeer with branched cream antlers, a red ball nose and a striped scarf. This amigurumi reindeer has a cream muzzle, big cream-lined ears, rosy cheeks, dark hoof pads and a red-and-white scarf with one end hanging down the front. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ends up about 15 cm (5.8 in) tall, and has 11 mm safety eyes (embroider them for small children); the antlers, ears and nose ball are sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece goes, a cosy Christmas gift.

How to crochet the Baby Reindeer

Advanced · 15 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 21 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Hoof ×2, Tail, Antler ×2, Antler tine ×4, Red nose ball, Scarf, Scarf end (125 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 14 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 90 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.7 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 17 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.4 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 28 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 5 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3 cm at the widest, 3.6 cm long; 11 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.9 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 30 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 3.6 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 25° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, on the centre front line). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 6 and 7 together. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Of these: no. 1 — 2 (left and right); low — 2 (left and right). Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.3 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  3. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.7 × 0.5 cm at the widest, 3.2 cm long; 9 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 5.
  3. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  4. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  5. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Press the piece flat (the opening becomes a straight line), front and back walls together.<!-- flattened 90 % --> Bend ≈ 75° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, on the centre bottom line). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 6 and 7 together.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R17) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 22 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 15–20 of the head, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 7, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 6–9 of the head, about 4 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 13–15 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (18 st); the seam covers rounds 4–9 of the body, about 7 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Hoof → leg (2 — one on each leg). Centre: at the centre of the magic ring (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers round 3 of the leg (all the way round).
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 6, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 5–8 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Antler → head (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 2–4 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points up and slightly outward. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Antler tine (no. 1) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 8, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 7–9 of the antler (all the way round). It points outward and up.
    1. Antler tine (low) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 4, on the centre back line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 3–5 of the antler (all the way round). It points outward and slightly up.
    1. Red nose ball → muzzle. Centre: in round 1, on the centre top line. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 1–2 of the muzzle (all the way round). It points forward. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Scarf → body. Put the scarf around the body: the chain ring (46 st) lies along round 14 of the body, the rounds spreading up; sew the ring to the body all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Scarf end → body. Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 14–15 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points forward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): in round 15, 9 st apart (count along round 15: about 4.3 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Embroidery in chocolate thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in chocolate thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 10 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 18, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0