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Catalog / Animals

Blue Heeler Puppy crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 93 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~3 h
Size
12.9 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A crochet amigurumi inspired by Bluey from Bluey: a blue heeler puppy with tall navy ears and a cream muzzle. About 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF. Unofficial fan-made design, not affiliated with or endorsed by BBC Studios / Ludo Studio.

How to crochet the Blue Heeler Puppy

Intermediate · 13 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 10 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Snout, Ear ×2, Tail, Arm ×2, Leg ×2 (93 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 69 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.6 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 17 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.3 cm at the widest, 6.6 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.2 × 2.4 cm at the widest, 4 cm long; 12 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.6 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 14 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 5.3 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 46 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 50° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 5 together (1 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.5 × 2.1 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With lightblue: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R17) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 20 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 1.6 cm.
    1. Snout → head. Centre: in round 17, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (22 st); the seam covers rounds 13–20 of the head, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 5 and 6, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (25 st); the seam covers rounds 3–12 of the head, about 12 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points up and outward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 7, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (9 st); the seam covers round 7 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points backward and slightly up.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 14–15 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 6, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (15 st); the seam covers rounds 5–10 of the body, about 7 st wide. It points forward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 13 mm (on the head): between rounds 13 and 14, 8 st apart (count along round 13: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the snout): in black thread, a oval about 10 mm wide and 7 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the snout) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 5 and 6, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 6 and 7, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 7 and 8, 3.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Blush about 9 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 17, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.

    Body · R1–R3

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0