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Catalog / Animals

Kitten in a Teacup crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 103 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
9.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet cat pattern for a chubby grey-and-white kitten peeking out of a pastel blue teacup. This amigurumi kitten has big green eyes, pink cheeks, little white paws on the rim and a striped tail curling out behind. The whole toy is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and stands about 10 cm (3.9 in) tall on its saucer; the cup, saucer, handle, head, ears and paws are made separately and sewn together, with safety eyes and an embroidered nose and mouth. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see where every piece goes.

How to crochet the Kitten in a Teacup

Advanced · 10 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 13 pieces in rounds: Teacup, Saucer, Cup handle, Kitten body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Paw ×2, Cheek ×2, Tail (103 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 13 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 78 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 4.4 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. Change to rim (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  3. Change to cup (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  4. Change to rim (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  5. Change to cup (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  6. Change to rim (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 9 cm at the widest (lies flat); 6 rounds.
  2. Change to cup (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 13 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 160° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 1.5 st from the centre front line, downward). On the inner side draw rounds 10 and 13 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 4.4 cm long; 16 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 20 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  4. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With white: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.9 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 3.3 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 29 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.3 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  5. Change to stripe (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  6. Change to cat (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R11).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 80° around round 6<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 6, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 7 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Teacup is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Saucer → teacup. Put the saucer around the teacup: the chain ring (36 st) lies along round 7 of the teacup, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the teacup all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Cup handle → teacup. Centre: in round 15, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Sew around the opening (6 st); the seam covers rounds 14–16 of the teacup, about 2 st wide. It points outward.
    1. Kitten body → teacup. Centre: in round 2, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–18 of the teacup (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Head → kitten body. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–5 of the kitten body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 12 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: in round 15, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 11–17 of the head, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 6, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (16 st); the seam covers rounds 3–9 of the head, about 6 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Paw → teacup (make 2). Centre: between rounds 17 and 18, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 17–18 of the teacup, about 3 st wide. It points forward and slightly up.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–16 of the head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Tail → teacup. Centre: in round 16, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 15–17 of the teacup, about 3 st wide. It points backward and slightly up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12–13 mm (on the head): in round 12, 7 st apart (count along round 12: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line). Iris iris #8fc46a.
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in nose thread, a triangle about 8 mm wide and 5.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in mouth thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Teacup · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0