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Catalog / Animals

Cheshire Cat with a Big Grin crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 65 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
10 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

the Cheshire Cat from Alice's Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll (1865), a classic character now in the public domain, as a cute crochet amigurumi: a pink-and-purple striped cat with a huge toothy grin. About 10 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A free pattern with every round counted, a 3D model to turn around and a printable PDF.

How to crochet the Cheshire Cat with a Big Grin

Beginner-friendly · 10 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 9 pieces in rounds: Body, Ear ×2, Tail, Arm ×2, Foot ×2, Grin (66 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 6 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 51 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 31 rounds.
  2. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  5. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  6. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  7. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  8. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  9. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  10. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  11. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  12. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  13. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  14. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R26).
  15. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  16. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R28).
  17. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 4 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 35 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 6.4 cm long; 18 rounds.
  2. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  5. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  6. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  7. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  8. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  9. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 280° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 8 rounds --><!-- coil 2 -->. The piece rolls up into a spiral (about 0.8 turns) from round 8 to its tip: after stuffing, roll it up starting from the tip (round 1) toward the side that faces up on the finished toy; the turns lie close, each wider than the last. From the tip to round 8 tack neighbouring turns together with 2–3 stitches of matching yarn every 3–4 rounds and hide the yarn inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Change to pink (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Change to purple (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 8 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Flat motif — crescent (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.3 × 4.3 cm; 1 row.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Ear → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 27 and 28, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (19 st); the seam covers rounds 23–30 of the body, about 8 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the body, both layers sewn down. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Flatten the opening (4 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 8–9 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points backward and slightly up.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body), across the rounds: rounds 11–14 of the body, about 1 st wide. It points forward and slightly inward.
    1. Foot → body (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 3–4 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Grin → body. Centre: in round 17, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–19 of the body, about 8 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 15 mm (on the body): in round 21, 7 st apart (count along round 21: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line). Iris eyeyellow #fff07a.
    • Satin stitch (on the body): in nose thread, a triangle about 7 mm wide and 5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 19, on the centre front line .

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0