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Catalog / Animals

Frog Knight crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 92 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~3 h
Size
14 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet frog pattern: a Frog Knight amigurumi, about 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A small green frog with a pale belly wears a silver helmet with a red plume and holds a round blue shield, with a brave little smile. You need about 100 m of yarn: 55 m green, 15 m silver, 5 m pale green, 5 m dark silver, 5 m blue, 5 m red, 5 m light pink and 5 m gold. Plan on roughly 3 hours. A good gift for fantasy fans and frog lovers, or a brave guardian for a bookshelf. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Frog Knight

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 3 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 14 pieces in rounds: Body with head, Eye bump ×2, Hind leg (thigh) ×2, Foot ×2, Cheek ×2, Knight helmet, Red plume, Shield, Arm, Shield arm (92 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 13 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 73 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.5 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 30 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 3 cm across; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.2 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 15 rounds.
  2. Change to dark silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R13).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 6.4 cm across; 8 rounds.
  2. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  3. Change to silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  4. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 1.6 cm thick.<!-- flattened 55 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

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    1. Body with head is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Eye bump → body with head (make 2). Centre: in round 23, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 21–26 of the body with head, about 5 st wide. It points up and forward and slightly outward. Press it into the base by about 7 mm.
    1. Hind leg (thigh) → body with head (make 2). Centre: in round 8, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 5–11 of the body with head, about 8 st wide. Put a little stuffing under it (≈ 7 mm thick).
    1. Foot → body with head (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 2–4 of the body with head, about 4 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Cheek → body with head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 18–21 of the body with head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Knight helmet → body with head. Centre: in round 28, on the centre back line. Put the knight helmet on the body with head like a hat: its magic ring over this point. Put stuffing under it - about 35 mm on top, thinning to about 2 mm where it rests on the base: it is wider than the body with head and keeps its own shape. Sew it on along round 15 of the knight helmet, where it rests on the body with head; it covers rounds 26–28 of the body with head, about 11 st wide. Do not pull the lower edge in: tack it from the inside in 4-6 places with loose stitches about 7 mm long so it keeps its shape. It points down.
    1. Red plume → knight helmet. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–2 of the knight helmet (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Shield → body with head. Centre: in round 10, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 4–16 of the body with head, about 14 st wide.
    1. Arm → body with head. Centre: in round 12, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body with head), across the rounds: rounds 10–14 of the body with head, about 1 st wide. It points forward and slightly inward.
    1. Shield arm → body with head. Centre: in round 13, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line top to bottom (along the body with head), across the rounds: rounds 11–15 of the body with head, about 1 st wide. It points forward and slightly inward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eye with a printed glint 13 mm (on the eye bump) (2: one on each eye bump; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): between rounds 4 and 5, on the centre front line.
    • Embroidery in dark green thread (on the body with head), straight stitches through: (in round 19, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 18, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 18, on the centre front line) → (in round 18, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 19, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in dark green thread (on the left eye bump), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (in round 3, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right).
    • Embroidery in dark green thread (on the left eye bump), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 3, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left).

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0