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Catalog / Animals

Golden Retriever Puppy crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 120 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
13.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet dog pattern for a sitting golden retriever puppy with soft floppy ears and a red collar with a round gold tag. This golden retriever plushie has a warm honey coat, caramel ears that hang beside its face, a cream muzzle with a black nose, and cream paws. Worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, it sits about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall; the collar is a chain ring, the tag a small flat circle, and the eyes and nose are safety pieces. The page gives the row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and an interactive 3D model to check every piece, a sweet gift for any dog lover.

How to crochet the Golden Retriever Puppy

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 14 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Collar, Round tag, Front leg ×2, Hind foot ×2, Tail (123 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 95 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.2 cm at the widest, 6.7 cm long; 27 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to honey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R20).
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 9.4 cm at the widest, 8.7 cm long; 33 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 4.3 × 2.7 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 7 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 6.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.1 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 19 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 4.8 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 51 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 45 %) --> Bend ≈ 90° around round 17<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds --><!-- drape relax_mm 6 twist 1 -->. The piece is soft and unstuffed: do not tack a fold. Sewn on as the assembly says, it bends over the head by itself and hangs down; the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 17, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the back <!-- st 1.43 back -->). If the ear sticks out, smooth it down along the head by hand.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.9 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Flat motif — circle (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.3 × 2.3 cm; 3 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Change to honey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.8 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Change to honey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.2 cm long; 12 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 45° around round 7<!-- the bend spreads over 4 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 7, on the centre top line). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 8 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head → body. Centre: between rounds 22 and 23, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 17–27 of the body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 1.8 cm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (28 st); the seam covers rounds 17–24 of the head, about 10 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 10 and 11, 14.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (18 st); the seam covers rounds 9–13 of the head, about 7 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: in round 20, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 18–22 of the head, about 3 st wide.
    1. Collar → body. Put the collar around the body: the chain ring (54 st) lies along round 17 of the body, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the body all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Round tag → body. Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–17 of the body, about 5 st wide.
    1. Front leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 15, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 14–15 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Hind foot → body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 6 and 7, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (21 st); the seam covers rounds 4–13 of the body, about 9 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 7–9 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points backward.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 15 mm (on the head): in round 17, 9 st apart (count along round 17: about 4.6 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Safety nose, oval, 12×9 mm (on the muzzle): between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line . Colour nose #1c1a1a.
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in nose thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 3, 3 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0