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Catalog / Animals

Shocked Hamster with Paws on Cheeks crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 55 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
10.9 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet hamster pattern: a Shocked Hamster with Paws on Cheeks amigurumi, about 11 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. The toy is a ginger and cream hamster standing upright, hands pressed to its pink cheeks, with huge round eyes, a tiny open mouth, a blue sweat drop and a startled tuft of hair. You need about 65 m of yarn: 35 m ginger, 15 m cream, 5 m light blue, 5 m white and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Gift for hamster lovers or a funny desk buddy for anyone who has just seen the bill. A quick, chunky make that suits beginners: one pear-shaped body worked in the round plus a few tiny parts. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Shocked Hamster with Paws on Cheeks

Beginner-friendly · 11 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 10 pieces in rounds: Body and head, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Cheek ×2, Sweat drop, Eye white ×2 (55 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 6 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 45 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 8 cm at the widest, 9.1 cm long; 32 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. colours of round 1 in order: 1 sc in cream, 3 sc in ginger, 2 sc in cream
  3. Change to ginger (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R23).
  4. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2.7 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–5 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 23 mm across.<!-- (dish 70 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 4 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in light blue (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 5 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 8 mm (on the body and head): in round 27, 4 st apart (count along round 27: about 2.2 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the body and head): in dark brown thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 9 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 22 and 23, on the centre front line .
  • Satin stitch (on the body and head): in pink thread, a triangle about 5 mm wide and 3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 24, on the centre front line .
  • Fringe (on the body and head): cut 7 pieces of yarn (ginger) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 32, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 32, on the centre front line -> in round 32, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm.
  • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the body and head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 30 and 31, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 31, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 31, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Abbreviations

MR
magic ring
sc
single crochet
inc
2 sc in the same stitch
dec
single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
BLO
work the round in back loops only
FLO
work the round in front loops only
ch
chain
sl st
slip stitch
st
stitch
R5
round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
(…) ×6
repeat 6 times
(24)
stitches in the round when it is done

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