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Catalog / Animals

Highland Cow with Bangs crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 130 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
15.1 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet highland cow pattern: a Highland Cow with Bangs amigurumi, about 15 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A caramel-ginger cow with a big woolly fringe that falls over its brow, long cream horns with brown tips, a pink muzzle and small eyes peeking out from under the bangs. You need about 155 m of yarn: 85 m caramel, 15 m gold, 15 m pink, 15 m cream, 10 m rust, 10 m dark brown and 5 m coral. Plan on roughly 5 hours. Give this shaggy little cow to anyone who loves Scotland, farm animals or a good hair day, or keep it as a desk buddy that makes people smile. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Highland Cow with Bangs

Advanced · 15 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 18 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Inner ear ×2, Horn ×2, Front leg with hoof ×2, Haunch (applique) ×2, Hind leg with hoof ×2, Tail with ball tip, Cheek ×2 (130 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 101 rounds done

  16. Size before assembly: about 7.9 cm at the widest, 4.8 cm long; 18 rounds.
  17. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  29. Size before assembly: about 8.8 cm at the widest, 7.8 cm long; 30 rounds.
  30. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  31. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  32. Press the piece flat to about 7.7 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 12 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: an oval about 5.2 × 3.2 cm at the widest, 3.2 cm long; 10 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With pink: ch 7.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.9 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 12 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a spoon: push the front wall into the back wall (not down to a thin plate) — a concave spoon about 6.5 mm deep in front, a rounded back, and rounded folds of two layers at the sides (about 5.7 mm thick); about 39 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 80 %) -->

  4. A flat oval about 4.6 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  5. With pink: ch 8.
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  14. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 17 rounds.
  15. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  16. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 85° around round 8<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 8, 2.5 st from the centre front line, upward <!-- st 2.59 up -->). On the inner side draw rounds 6 and 9 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 3 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  9. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 3.9 cm long; 12 rounds.
  10. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 35° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 2 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre front line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 6 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 4 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  6. A flat circle about 3.8 cm across; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  9. Size before assembly: about 2.8 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 10 rounds.
  10. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  11. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  7. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 11 rounds.
  8. Change to caramel (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the Head): between rounds 14 and 15, 11 st apart (count along round 14: about 5.5 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the Muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in rose thread, a oval about 4.5 mm wide and 6.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 3 and 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
  • Fringe (on the Head): cut 12 pieces of yarn (rust, gold) about 68 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 3 and 4, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 3, on the centre front line -> between rounds 3 and 4, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left, evenly spaced. Trim to about 24 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the Head): cut 14 pieces of yarn (gold, rust) about 72 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 6, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 5 and 6, on the centre front line -> in round 6, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left, evenly spaced. Trim to about 26 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the Head): cut 18 pieces of yarn (rust, gold) about 80 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 8, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 8, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 8, on the centre front line -> in round 8, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 8, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 30 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the Head): cut 17 pieces of yarn (gold, rust) about 72 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 10, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 10, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> in round 10, on the centre front line -> in round 10, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 10, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 26 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Fringe (on the Head): cut 10 pieces of yarn (rust, gold) about 52 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 11 and 12, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 11 and 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre front line -> between rounds 11 and 12, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 11 and 12, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 16 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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  • Mane (on the Head): cut 9 pieces of yarn (rust, gold) about 64 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 3, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 2, on the centre back line -> in round 3, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right, evenly spaced. Trim to about 22 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Strands (mane) (on the Body): cut 34 pieces of yarn (rust, gold) about 56 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 16 and 17, on the centre front line -> between rounds 16 and 17, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 16 and 17, on the centre back line -> between rounds 16 and 17, 13.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 16 and 17, on the centre front line, evenly spaced. Trim to about 18 mm. Curl the strands (see the last item of this section).
  • Curling the strands: Curls: before knotting, wrap the pieces tightly in a spiral around a knitting needle or a wooden skewer (3–4 mm), tape the ends, dampen (or steam with an iron held above, not touching) and let them dry completely on the needle; slide them off and they stay curly. For fluffy waves instead, untwist each strand into its plies and brush lightly. Note: instead of knotted strands the fringe can be worked as loop stitches along the rounds — an alternative that is not part of this pattern's stitch counts.
    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done