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Catalog / Animals

Big Chunky Teddy crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 117 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~9 h
Size
31.3 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet teddy bear pattern for a big, chubby cream bear that sits low like a huggable cushion. This jumbo amigurumi bear has a huge soft head, a light brown muzzle and belly patch, round ears, big 28 mm glossy eyes, rosy cheeks and a bright red bow tie under the chin. It is worked in the round in single crochet with bulky yarn and a 6 mm hook and is about 31 cm (12 in) tall; the head, body, muzzle, ears, paws, feet and bow are made separately, with the belly patch and foot pads sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece.

How to crochet the Big Chunky Teddy

Advanced · 31 cm tall · about 9 h · bulky yarn · 6 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 16 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Belly patch, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Front paw ×2, Foot ×2, Foot pad ×2, Tail, Bow loop ×2, Bow knot (117 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 9 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 7.5 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 6.8 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 13 sc × 15 rounds); yarn about 3.6 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 97 rounds done

  18. Size before assembly: about 20.7 cm at the widest, 13 cm long; 24 rounds.
  19. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  31. Size before assembly: about 22.2 cm at the widest, 17.6 cm long; 38 rounds.
  32. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  33. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. A flat oval about 10.7 × 6.9 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With oat: ch 7.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: an oval about 7.8 × 5.6 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 6 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With oat: ch 5.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 8 rounds.
  10. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  11. → This piece is not stuffed.
  12. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–4 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 7.5 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 5–8 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 15.1 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 75 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  7. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 4.5 cm long; 8 rounds.
  8. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 6.1 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 9 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 4.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  8. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 7 rounds.
  9. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  10. Press the piece flat to about 2 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 60 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 9 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 2.3 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 24–30 mm (on the head): between rounds 18 and 19, 12 st apart (count along round 18: about 5.8 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a oval about 20 mm wide and 14 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 24 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 21 and 22, 10.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done