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Catalog / Animals

Leggy Frog in Mushroom Hat crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 113 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
13.2 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet frog pattern: a Leggy Frog in Mushroom Hat amigurumi, about 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a small green frog with big bulging eyes, a cream belly, a wide smile, pink cheeks, a red spotted mushroom hat and long light green legs. You need about 115 m: 60 m moss green, 20 m red, 10 m cream, 10 m light moss green, 10 m white and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. A whimsical gift for frog and mushroom fans or a cottagecore shelf decoration. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern for the body, the spotted hat and the long legs.

How to crochet the Leggy Frog in Mushroom Hat

Advanced · 13 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 18 pieces in rounds: Frog, Belly patch, Eye bump ×2, Eye white ×2, Toadstool cap, Dot ×4, Small dot ×3, Leg ×2, Cheek ×2 (113 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 12 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 71 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 7.7 cm long; 28 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat oval about 7.2 × 5.2 cm; 7 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 7.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 8 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.9 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 21 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; front — 1; side — 2 (left and right). A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: on the toadstool cap — 3 (1 pair, left and right, and 1 single). A flat circle about 0.9 cm across; 1 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.2 × 2 cm at the widest, 14.4 cm long; 41 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With light moss: ch 5.
  3. Change to moss (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Frog is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Belly patch → frog. Centre: in round 12, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–17 of the frog, about 14 st wide.
    1. Eye bump → frog (make 2). Centre: in round 25, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (18 st); the seam covers rounds 20–27 of the frog, about 7 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Eye white → eye bump (2 — one on each eye bump). Centre: in round 3, on the centre top line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 1–5 of the eye bump, about 10 st wide.
    1. Toadstool cap → frog. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 20–28 of the frog (all the way round). It points up and slightly backward. Press it into the base by about 14 mm.
    1. Dot (top) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 2–6 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Dot (front) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 10, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–12 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Dot (side) → toadstool cap (make 2). Centre: in round 11, 12 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 9–13 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 1) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 8, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–9 of the toadstool cap, about 2 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 2) → toadstool cap (make 2). Centre: in round 8, 6 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–9 of the toadstool cap, about 2 st wide.
    1. Leg → frog (make 2). Centre: in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: round 3 of the frog, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Cheek → frog (make 2). Centre: in round 19, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 17–21 of the frog, about 3 st wide.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Embroidered eyes (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in black thread, a oval about 11 mm wide and 11 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line, then moved 1.6 mm down (looking at the toy's face).
    • Eye glint (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in white thread over the embroidered eye, a oval about 3.2 mm wide and 3.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line, then moved 1.8 mm to the right and 2.4 mm up (looking at the toy's face).
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the frog), straight stitches through: (between rounds 19 and 20, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 19, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, on the centre front line) → (in round 19, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 19 and 20, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Frog · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0