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Catalog / Animals

Mouse in a Stocking with a Bauble crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 87 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~4 h
Size
15.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet mouse pattern: a Mouse in a Stocking with a Bauble amigurumi, about 16 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A grey mouse with big pink-lined ears peeks out of a red stocking with a white cuff and green toe and heel, hugging a gold bauble it just found. You need about 105 m of yarn: 30 m red, 30 m grey, 10 m dark green, 5 m pink, 10 m yellow, 5 m white, 5 m light pink, 5 m dark yellow and 5 m nose pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. Put it on a shelf or hang the stocking from a mantel as a small Christmas surprise, or give it to anyone who loves mice and festive crafts. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Mouse in a Stocking with a Bauble

Intermediate · 16 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 11 pieces in rounds: Stocking, Head, Ear ×2, Nose, Gold bauble, Bauble cap, Paw ×2, Cheek ×2 (87 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 9 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 14 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 57 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.5 cm at the widest, 11.2 cm long; 34 rounds.
  2. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R5).
  3. Change to dark green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  4. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  5. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R31).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 90° around round 20<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 20, on the centre top line). It is a gradual bend: with the needle and matching yarn run a line of stitches along the inner side from round 13 to round 27, one stitch in every round along one column, then pull the yarn until the piece bends to the angle (the inner side gathers by about 14 rounds) and fasten off inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.4 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 20 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–4 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 4 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 5–9 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 40 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
    • Add a little scarf
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    1. Stocking is the base; its magic ring is at the front.
    1. Head onto the stocking. Stuff the stocking firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the stocking's opening (R34) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along rounds 14–16 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 8 mm.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 7, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 6 st of round 6, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 6–10 of the head, about 4 st wide. Press it into the base by about 7 mm.
    1. Nose → head. Centre: between rounds 15 and 16, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 13–16 of the head, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Gold bauble → stocking. Centre: in round 29, on the centre top line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 9–33 of the stocking, about 6 st wide. It points forward. Press it into the base by about 8 mm.
    1. Bauble cap → gold bauble. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–3 of the gold bauble, about 9 st wide. It points up.
    1. Paw → stocking (make 2). Centre: between rounds 32 and 33, 5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 32–34 of the stocking, about 2 st wide. It points forward and slightly up.
    1. Tail: with pink, ch 23 (≈ 70 mm), then sl st back along the chain starting in the 2nd ch from hook. Sew its start to the stocking: in round 33, on the centre bottom line.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–16 of the head, about 4 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the head): in round 12, 7 st apart (count along round 12: about 3.5 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 15, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 16, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Stocking · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0