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Catalog / Animals

Frog in a Mushroom Hat crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 112 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~5 h
Size
14.3 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free mushroom frog crochet pattern for a sweet cottagecore amigurumi frog sitting under a red toadstool cap with white spots. This frog plushie has a big round head with bulging cartoon eyes, rosy cheeks, a tiny smile and a cream belly patch, and its chubby legs stick out in front so it sits steady. It is worked in the round in single crochet with DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and stands about 14 cm (5.5 in) tall; the eyes are embroidered, and the stuffed cap, spots, belly, arms and legs are sewn on. Every round comes with stitch counts, and the interactive 3D model shows where each piece goes.

How to crochet the Frog in a Mushroom Hat

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 5 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 22 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Eye bump ×2, Eye white ×2, Toadstool cap, Dot ×5, Small dot ×3, Belly patch, Cheek ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2 (112 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 15 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 97 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.7 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 16 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 10.9 × 7.7 cm at the widest, 7.3 cm long; 27 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the top of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 4 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With moss: ch 10.
  3. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 20 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.1 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 3 cm across; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.6 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 24 rounds.
  2. Change to gill (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  3. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  4. Change to cap (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; front — 1; side — 2 (left and right); back — 1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Of these: on the toadstool cap — 3 (1 pair, left and right, and 1 single). A flat circle about 0.9 cm across; 1 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 5.3 cm across; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.7 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 9 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

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    Open it in the 3D editor: change the colours, the size of any piece, or ask the AI in words. Your version gets its own pattern.

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    • Recolour it in pastels
    • Make it chubbier
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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R16) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along rounds 17–19 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble. Press it into the base by about 2.3 cm.
    1. Eye bump → head (make 2). Centre: in round 7, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (24 st); the seam covers rounds 3–11 of the head, about 10 st wide. It points up and forward and slightly outward.
    1. Eye white → eye bump (2 — one on each eye bump). Centre: between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 2–6 of the eye bump (all the way round).
    1. Toadstool cap → head. Centre: between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre back line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–10 of the head (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 1.6 cm.
    1. Dot (top) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 2–6 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Dot (front) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 11, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 9–13 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Dot (side) → toadstool cap (make 2). Centre: in round 12, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–14 of the toadstool cap, about 4 st wide.
    1. Dot (back) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 10, 2.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–12 of the toadstool cap, about 3 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 1) → toadstool cap. Centre: in round 8, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 7–9 of the toadstool cap, about 2 st wide.
    1. Small dot (no. 2) → toadstool cap (make 2). Centre: in round 9, 16 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–10 of the toadstool cap, about 2 st wide.
    1. Belly patch → body. Centre: in round 10, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 5–15 of the body, about 11 st wide.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 10 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–16 of the head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 14, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (6 st against 6 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 13–15 of the body, about 5 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (8 st against 8 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 4–8 of the body, about 8 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Embroidered eyes (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in black thread, a oval about 13.5 mm wide and 13.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
    • Eye glint (on the eye white) (2: one on each eye white; the left one is described, the right is its mirror): in white thread over the embroidered eye, a oval about 3.6 mm wide and 3.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line, then moved 2.2 mm to the right and 2.7 mm up (looking at the toy's face).
    • Embroidery in brown thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 13 and 14, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 15, on the centre front line) → (between rounds 14 and 15, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 13 and 14, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0