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Catalog / Animals

Polar Bear in a Gift Box Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 74 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
7.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet christmas present pattern: a tiny amigurumi polar bear cub peeking out of an open green gift box. The little bear wears a red ribbon bow between its ears, rests its paws on a red lid band and has a gold ring on top for hanging. It is worked in the round in single crochet with fingering yarn and a 2 mm hook and stands about 7.7 cm (3 in) tall, with safety eyes and nose (or embroider them) and the ears, bow, paws and ribbon sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to check every piece; it also makes a cute gift topper.

How to crochet the Polar Bear in a Gift Box Ornament

Intermediate · 8 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 15 pieces in rounds: Gift box, Lid band, Bear body, Head, Bow knot, Bow loop ×2, Hanging loop, Ear ×2, Muzzle, Cheek ×2, Paw ×2 (74 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 12 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 56 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 5.3 × 3.5 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 16 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With forest green: ch 8.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.3 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.5 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 2.9 cm long; 17 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Press the piece flat to about 7 mm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 55 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 12 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Change to snow (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 1.6 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–4 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 5.9 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 19 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 1.6 × 1 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With snow: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.2 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

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    1. Gift box is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Lid band → gift box. Put the lid band around the gift box: the chain ring (50 st) lies along the edge of the last round of the gift box, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the gift box all round and let the rest lie free on it. The fabric hangs from the ring and lies along the gift box below it.
    1. Ribbon (worked flat in turned rows): with red, ch 5; Row 1: starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4). Rows 2–12: 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4). Fasten off. The strip is about 1.2 cm long. Lay it along the curve of the gift box, running side to side: its middle between rounds 14 and 15, on the centre front line; its ends between rounds 14 and 15, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left and between rounds 14 and 15, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right . Pin, then sew along both long edges.
    1. Bear body → gift box. Centre: in round 2, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–16 of the gift box (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 6 mm.
    1. Head → bear body. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–3 of the bear body (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Bow knot → head. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches round 1 of the head (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Bow loop → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 2–6 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points outward and slightly up.
    1. Hanging loop → bow knot. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 2 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 1–2 of the bow knot, about 2 st wide. It points up.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 6, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 2 st of round 4, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 5–7 of the head, about 2 st wide. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Muzzle → head. Centre: in round 12, on the centre front line . Sew around the opening (14 st); the seam covers rounds 9–13 of the head, about 7 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 11 and 12, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–13 of the head, about 3 st wide.
    1. Paw → gift box (make 2). Centre: in round 15, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 14–16 of the gift box, about 2 st wide. It points forward and slightly up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 5–6 mm (on the head): in round 10, 7 st apart (count along round 10: about 3.3 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Safety nose, triangle, 6×4.5 mm (on the muzzle): between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre top line . Colour charcoal #2b2a2a.
    • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in charcoal thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0