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Catalog / Animals

Little Reindeer Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 68 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
7.5 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet reindeer pattern for a little amigurumi reindeer ornament with a red nose, pale antlers and a hanging loop. This reindeer plushie is a round cocoa-brown ball with happy closed eyes, a cream muzzle, a red nose ball and a red collar with a golden bell. It is worked in the round in single crochet with fingering yarn and a 2 mm hook and stands about 7.5 cm (3 in) tall; the eyes and mouth are embroidered, and the ears, antlers, nose, bell, tiny hooves and loop are sewn on. The page gives a row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and an interactive 3D model to check every piece, and it makes a sweet tree decoration.

How to crochet the Little Reindeer Ornament

Intermediate · 8 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 16 pieces in rounds: Head-body ball, Muzzle patch, Red nose ball, Cheek ×2, Ear ×2, Antler ×2, Antler tine ×2, Hoof ×2, Red collar, Gold bell, Hanging loop (68 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 57 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.4 cm at the widest, 5.4 cm long; 26 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat oval about 1.9 × 1.6 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 7 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 1.5 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 18 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 40 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.7 cm at the widest, 2.6 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 25° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 5 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces forward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre front line). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 4 and 5 together. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.5 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 4 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 0.8 cm long; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.9 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 5 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in soft gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Head-body ball is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Muzzle patch → head-body ball. Centre: in round 13, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–15 of the head-body ball, about 6 st wide.
    1. Red nose ball → head-body ball. Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, on the centre front line . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 13–15 of the head-body ball, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Cheek → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: between rounds 13 and 14, 8.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 12–15 of the head-body ball, about 3 st wide.
    1. Ear → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: in round 21, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (15 st); the seam covers rounds 18–23 of the head-body ball, about 5 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head-body ball, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Antler → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: between rounds 25 and 26, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers rounds 25–26 of the head-body ball, about 2 st wide. It points up and slightly outward. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Antler tine → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 6, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers rounds 5–7 of the antler (all the way round). It points outward and up.
    1. Hoof → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 3–5 of the head-body ball, about 3 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Red collar → head-body ball. Put the red collar around the head-body ball: the chain ring (44 st) lies along round 10.4 of the head-body ball, the rounds spreading down; sew the ring to the head-body ball all round and let the rest lie free on it. The fabric hangs from the ring and lies along the head-body ball below it.
    1. Gold bell → head-body ball. Centre: in round 9, on the centre front line . Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches rounds 9–11 of the head-body ball, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Hanging loop → head-body ball. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 3 st of the edge; the seam covers round 26 of the head-body ball, about 1 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the head-body ball) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 16 and 17, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 15 and 16, 6.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the muzzle patch), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
    • Embroidery in dark brown thread (on the muzzle patch), straight stitches through: (between rounds 1 and 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Head-body ball · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0