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Catalog / Animals

Polar Bear Ball Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 55 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
1/3
Time
~2 h
Size
8.2 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet polar bear ornament pattern: a Polar Bear Ball Ornament amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2 mm hook. A round white polar bear head with small ears, a cream muzzle, a black nose, pink cheeks and a green knitted hat with a red cuff and a white pompom, hung from a red loop. You need about 50 m of yarn: 30 m white, 5 m green, 5 m red, 5 m cream and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 2 hours. A winter tree ornament that also makes a nice gift tag decoration or window charm. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern, and the hat is just a short cone with a ribbed cuff.

How to crochet the Polar Bear Ball Ornament

Beginner-friendly · 8 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 9 pieces in rounds: Panda ball, Ear ×2, Muzzle, Cheek ×2, Knitted hat, Pompom, Hanging loop (55 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 7 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 10 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 48 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.2 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 27 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.7 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 2 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–5 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 5.9 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 17 mm across.<!-- (dish 70 %) -->

  1. A flat oval about 2.2 × 1.6 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat circle about 1.2 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.2 cm at the widest, 2 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Change to red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in red (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Panda ball is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Ear → panda ball (make 2). Centre: in round 22, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 4 st of round 4, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 21–23 of the panda ball, about 1 st wide. Press it into the base by about 4 mm.
    1. Muzzle → panda ball. Centre: between rounds 16 and 17, on the centre front line . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–19 of the panda ball, about 6 st wide.
    1. Cheek → panda ball (make 2). Centre: between rounds 15 and 16, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 14–17 of the panda ball, about 4 st wide.
    1. Knitted hat → panda ball. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Put the knitted hat on the panda ball like a hat: its magic ring over this point. Put stuffing under it - about 17 mm on top, thinning to about 2 mm where it rests on the base: it is wider than the panda ball and keeps its own shape. Sew it on along round 10 of the knitted hat, where it rests on the panda ball; it covers round 22 of the panda ball (all the way round). It points down.
    1. Pompom → knitted hat. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–2 of the knitted hat (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Hanging loop → pompom. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 5 st of the edge; the seam covers round 6 of the pompom, about 3 st wide. It points up.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 6 mm (on the panda ball): in round 18, 7 st apart (count along round 18: about 3.3 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the panda ball): in black thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 6 mm wide and 4.3 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 17, on the centre front line .

    Panda ball · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0