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Catalog / Animals

Raccoon in a Trash Can crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 148 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~6 h
Size
16.7 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet raccoon pattern: a Raccoon in a Trash Can amigurumi, about 17 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A grey raccoon with a black mask and a striped tail peeks out of a small silver trash can with the lid sitting crookedly on its head and two dark paws gripping the rim. You need about 165 m of yarn: 65 m grey, 35 m silver, 20 m charcoal, 20 m dark silver, 15 m light grey, 5 m cream and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 6 hours. A good gift for anyone who loves raccoons or a tidy-looking mess, and it sits nicely on a shelf. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Raccoon in a Trash Can

Advanced · 17 cm tall · about 6 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 19 pieces in rounds: Trash can, Raccoon body, Head, Muzzle, Eye mask ×2, Light brow ×2, Cheek ×2, Ear ×2, Paw ×2, Can handle ×2, Tail, Trash can lid, Lid handle (148 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 13 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 119 rounds done

  22. Size before assembly: about 9.9 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 25 rounds.
  23. Change to dark silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  24. Change to silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  25. Change to dark silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R18).
  26. Change to silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R19).
  27. Change to dark silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R22).
  28. Change to silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R24).
  29. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  13. Size before assembly: about 5 cm at the widest, 4.3 cm long; 17 rounds.
  14. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  15. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  30. Size before assembly: about 9.9 cm at the widest, 8.4 cm long; 33 rounds.
  31. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  32. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 1.1 cm long; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  5. A flat oval about 4.1 × 2.9 cm; 4 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  6. With charcoal: ch 5.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  2. A flat oval about 3.1 × 0.7 cm; 1 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  3. With cream: ch 8.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: about 3.2 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 6 rounds.
  7. Change to charcoal (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 32 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.4 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 13 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 160° around round 12<!-- the bend spreads over 6 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces up on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 12, 1.5 st from the centre front line, upward). On the inner side draw rounds 10 and 13 together (3 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 2 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  14. Size before assembly: about 4.1 cm at the widest, 5.4 cm long; 17 rounds.
  15. Change to charcoal (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  16. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  17. Change to charcoal (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  18. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R10).
  19. Change to charcoal (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R12).
  20. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R14).
  21. Change to charcoal (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R15).
  22. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  18. Size before assembly: about 5.9 cm at the widest, 3 cm long; 17 rounds.
  19. Change to dark silver (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  20. Change to light grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  21. → Start stuffing (lightly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  22. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  5. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 4 rounds.
  6. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  7. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 14 mm (on the head): in round 17, 11 st apart (count along round 17: about 5.6 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Safety nose, triangle, 8×6 mm (on the muzzle): in round 2, on the centre top line.
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 2 and 3, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 3.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in black thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, 3.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (in round 17, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 17, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 17, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 17, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 17, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 17, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Trash can · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×

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  • Embroidery in cream thread (on the trash can), straight stitches through: (between rounds 15 and 16, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 17, 5.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ) → (between rounds 18 and 19, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right ).
  • Satin stitch (on the trash can): in cream thread, a oval about 7 mm wide and 5.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 17, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done