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Catalog / Animals

Pizza Rat crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 113 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
14.1 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet rat pattern: a Pizza Rat amigurumi, about 14 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a determined grey rat with big pink ears and a long pink tail hugging a big triangular slice of pepperoni pizza with a golden crust. You need about 130 m of yarn: 85 m grey, 15 m yellow, 10 m pink, 5 m light grey, 5 m tan, 5 m cream and 5 m red. Plan on roughly 4 hours. It makes a funny gift for pizza and city-rat fans and a good desk companion; you can spin the 3D model and follow the pattern round by round.

How to crochet the Pizza Rat

Advanced · 14 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 14 pieces in rounds: Body, Head, Muzzle, Ear ×2, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Foot pad ×2, Pizza slice, Pepperoni ×2 (113 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 88 rounds done

  15. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 19 rounds.
  16. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  23. Size before assembly: about 8.4 cm at the widest, 6.9 cm long; 28 rounds.
  24. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  25. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  6. Size before assembly: an oval about 2.1 × 1.7 cm at the widest, 2.7 cm long; 8 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  7. With light grey: ch 3.
  8. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  11. Size before assembly: about 4.8 cm at the widest, 2.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  12. Change to grey (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  13. → This piece is not stuffed.
  14. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–5 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 5 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 6–11 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 48 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  8. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 4.1 cm long; 11 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  18. Size before assembly: about 5.2 cm at the widest, 5.9 cm long; 20 rounds.
  19. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R16).
  20. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  21. Press the piece flat to about 3.4 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 35 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 9 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  3. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  4. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): in round 14, 9 st apart (count along round 14: about 4.7 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in rose thread, a oval about 8 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line.
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 11 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): between rounds 15 and 16, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left. Colour blush.
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 2 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 4, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 4 and 5, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 5, 2.5 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Embroidery in dark thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 13 and 14, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 13, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 12, 6 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done