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Catalog / Animals

Sitting Reindeer crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 123 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
3/3
Time
~4 h
Size
16.5 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet reindeer pattern: a Sitting Reindeer amigurumi, about 17 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a sitting brown reindeer with a cream belly, branching beige antlers, a shiny red nose, pink cheeks and a chunky green scarf. You need about 125 m of yarn: 75 m brown, 15 m beige, 10 m green, 10 m cream, 5 m dark brown, 5 m red and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. Sit it under the tree or on a shelf as a Christmas decoration, or give it to a child as a first holiday friend. Turn the 3D model around and follow the round-by-round pattern, with the antlers worked as separate branching pieces.

How to crochet the Sitting Reindeer

Advanced · 17 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 22 pieces in rounds: Body, Cream belly, Head, Scarf, Scarf end, Tail, Arm ×2, Leg ×2, Muzzle patch, Red nose, Ear ×2, Antler ×2, Antler tine ×4, Cheek ×2 (123 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 15 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 87 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5.5 cm long; 19 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat oval about 5.7 × 3.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 7.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.1 cm long; 25 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 6.2 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. A flat oval about 2.6 × 2.2 cm; 3 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running vertically, top to bottom. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With green: ch 3.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.1 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2 cm at the widest, 3.6 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 3.4 cm long; 11 rounds.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 3 cm across; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.6 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 2.4 cm at the widest, 3.3 cm long; 10 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 10.8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.7 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 24 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 1 cm at the widest, 5 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 30° around round 9<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 9, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 1.85 left -->). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 8 and 9 together. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 2.4 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Cream belly → body. Centre: between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–16 of the body, about 11 st wide.
    1. Head onto the body. Stuff the body firmly. Hold the head's closing point (last round) at the centre of the body's opening (R19) and sew the edge of the opening all round to the head: the seam runs along round 20 of the head (all the way round). Top up the neck with stuffing before closing the seam so the head does not wobble.
    1. Scarf → body. Put the scarf around the body: the chain ring (48 st) lies along round 16 of the body, the rounds spreading up; sew the ring to the body all round and let the rest lie free on it.
    1. Scarf end → body. Centre: in round 14, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 11–17 of the body, about 5 st wide.
    1. Tail → body. Centre: in round 7, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (8 st); the seam covers rounds 6–8 of the body, about 3 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Arm → body (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 9 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line front to back, along the round: rounds 15–17 of the body, about 4 st wide. It points down and slightly forward.
    1. Leg → body (make 2). Centre: in round 5, 3 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (18 st); the seam covers rounds 4–7 of the body, about 7 st wide. It points forward and slightly outward.
    1. Muzzle patch → head. Centre: in round 18, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 15–21 of the head, about 7 st wide.
    1. Red nose → head. Centre: between rounds 18 and 19, on the centre front line . Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 16–19 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 9, 12.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (9 st); the seam covers rounds 8–10 of the head, about 3 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Antler → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 4 and 5, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 3–6 of the head, about 2 st wide. It points up and slightly outward.
    1. Antler tine (no. 1) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 6, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers rounds 5–7 of the antler, about 4 st wide. It points up.
    1. Antler tine (no. 2) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers round 11 of the antler (all the way round). It points outward and up.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: in round 18, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 16–20 of the head, about 4 st wide.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in black thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 10.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 14, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in white thread in several layers so it stands out, a oval about 3.2 mm wide and 3.6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 13 and 14, 4 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre front line ) → (between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line ).
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (between rounds 20 and 21, on the centre front line ) → (in round 21, 1 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 20 and 21, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left ).

    Body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0