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Catalog / Animals

Big Polar Bear crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 138 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engineAnimals

Difficulty
3/3
Time
~12 h
Size
33.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet polar bear pattern for a big, squishy cushion bear in red earmuffs and a candy-striped scarf. This amigurumi polar bear is snow white with an ivory muzzle, small round ears, rosy cheeks and a scarf end with a little fringe that hangs over its tummy. It is worked in the round in single crochet with bulky yarn and a 6 mm hook, ends up about 33 cm (13 in) tall, and uses 30 mm safety eyes; the ribbed scarf, earmuffs and chain headband, paws and feet are sewn on. Follow it row by row with stitch counts and turn the interactive 3D model to see every piece - a cozy Christmas gift to hug all winter.

How to crochet the Big Polar Bear

Advanced · 33 cm tall · about 12 h · bulky yarn · 6 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 16 pieces in rounds: Body, Scarf, Head, Muzzle, Earmuff ×2, Ear ×2, Scarf end, Front paw ×2, Foot ×2, Foot pad ×2, Tail (138 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 11 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

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Gauge

1 sc ≈ 7.5 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 6.8 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 13 sc × 15 rounds); yarn about 3.6 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 118 rounds done

  23. Size before assembly: about 24.4 cm at the widest, 12.5 cm long; 25 rounds.
  24. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. Size before assembly: about 20.4 cm at the widest, 3.5 cm long; 3 rounds.
  5. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R1).
  6. Change to scarf red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  41. Size before assembly: about 26.3 cm at the widest, 20.4 cm long; 44 rounds.
  42. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  43. Press the piece flat to about 23.7 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 10 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  7. Size before assembly: an oval about 11.6 × 7.1 cm at the widest, 3.1 cm long; 7 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 3 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  8. With ivory: ch 8.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  11. Size before assembly: about 7.6 cm at the widest, 5.7 cm long; 13 rounds.
  12. → Start stuffing (moderately) and keep adding as you decrease.
  13. Press the piece flat to about 4.6 cm thick (oval cross-section).<!-- press the piece flat by 40 % --> Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  9. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 2.8 cm long; 8 rounds.
  10. Change to snow white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R3).
  11. → This piece is not stuffed.
  12. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–4 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 7.5 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 5–8 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 15.1 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 75 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  7. Size before assembly: an oval about 4 × 1 cm at the widest, 7.4 cm long; 11 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  8. With scarf red: ch 6.
  9. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  10. Change to scarf red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R4).
  11. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  12. Change to scarf red (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  13. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Press the piece flat (the opening becomes a straight line), front and back walls together.<!-- flattened 90 % --> Bend ≈ 60° around round 7<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces down on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 7, on the centre bottom line). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 7 and 8 together.

  8. Size before assembly: about 5.1 cm at the widest, 4.9 cm long; 9 rounds.
  9. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  9. Size before assembly: about 7.4 cm at the widest, 5 cm long; 10 rounds.
  10. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff moderately just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  4. A flat circle about 4.3 cm across; 3 rounds.
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  6. Size before assembly: about 3.5 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 5 rounds.
  7. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

  • Safety eyes with a printed glint 30 mm (on the head): in round 21, 16 st apart (count along round 21: about 7.9 st each side of the centre front line).
  • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in nose black thread, a oval about 24 mm wide and 16 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
  • Embroidery in nose black thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
  • Embroidery in nose black thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 2.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).
  • Blush about 24 mm, dry pastel or blush (on the head, both sides): in round 24, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left . Colour blush pink.
  • Strap (on the head): with muff red, ch 50 (≈ 27.6 cm); for a firmer strap sl st back along it. Sew it along (in round 16, 22.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (in round 8, 12 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 1 and 2, 1.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 8, 12 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right) → (in round 16, 22.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right), catching it every 2–3 ch.
  • Fringe (on the scarf end): cut 7 pieces of yarn (scarf red) about 80 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 1, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left -> in round 1, on the centre top line -> in round 1, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's right, evenly spaced. Trim to about 30 mm.

Body · R1–R5

MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V

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    • ×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done