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Catalog / Animals

Leggy Bear crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 73 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
9.4 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet bear pattern: a Leggy Bear amigurumi, about 9 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. It is a small round brown teddy bear with round ears, a tan muzzle and very long thin legs in blue jeans and red shoes. You need about 70 m of yarn: 30 m brown, 15 m blue, 10 m red, 5 m tan, 5 m coral and 5 m light blue. Plan on roughly 2 hours. It makes a playful gift for anyone who loves teddy bears with a twist. Spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern to make your own.

How to crochet the Leggy Bear

Intermediate · 9 cm tall · about 2 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 9 pieces in rounds: Bear head and body, Long leg ×2, Ear ×2, Muzzle, Tail, Cheek ×2 (73 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 6 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 42 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 7.5 cm at the widest, 6.1 cm long; 25 rounds.
  2. → Insert the safety eyes now (positions: see “Face”) and fix the backs. Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.2 × 2 cm at the widest, 11.5 cm long; 33 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs vertically, top to bottom; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With red: ch 5.
  3. Change to tan (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  4. Change to light blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  5. Change to blue (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R9).
  6. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 3.3 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 6 rounds.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R2).
  3. → This piece is not stuffed.
  4. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–3 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 3.1 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 4–6 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 8 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 33 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3 × 2.2 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs side to side; the starting chain is at the front of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 1 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With tan: ch 4.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

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    1. Bear head and body is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Long leg → bear head and body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 4 and 5, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 5 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 4–5 of the bear head and body, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → bear head and body (make 2). Centre: in round 20, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 4 st of round 5, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 19–22 of the bear head and body, about 3 st wide. Press it into the base by about 5 mm.
    1. Muzzle → bear head and body. Centre: in round 14, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (20 st); the seam covers rounds 11–17 of the bear head and body, about 8 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Tail → bear head and body. Centre: in round 8, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (10 st); the seam covers rounds 7–10 of the bear head and body, about 4 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Cheek → bear head and body (make 2). Centre: between rounds 14 and 15, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–16 of the bear head and body, about 3 st wide.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 12 mm (on the bear head and body): between rounds 16 and 17, 8 st apart (count along round 16: about 4 st each side of the centre front line).
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle): in dark thread, a oval about 9 mm wide and 6 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 1, on the centre top line .
    • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle), straight stitches through: (in round 1, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ).
    • Embroidery in dark thread (on the muzzle) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image), straight stitches through: (in round 2, on the centre bottom line ) → (in round 2, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 2 and 3, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 2, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ).

    Bear head and body · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0