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Catalog / Animals

Hedgehog in a Santa Hat Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 57 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
9.3 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

A free crochet Christmas ornaments pattern for a round hazel-brown hedgehog in a red Santa hat with a pompom and a golden hanging loop. This amigurumi hedgehog has a cream face, a dark little nose, round ears and a back covered in short yarn fringe quills that make it look spiky and soft at once. It is worked in the round in single crochet with fingering yarn and a 2 mm hook and stands about 9.3 cm (3.7 in) tall with the hat; the eyes are embroidered, the face, snout, ears, feet and hat are sewn on and the quills are knotted in. The page gives a row-by-row pattern with stitch counts and an interactive 3D model to check every piece.

How to crochet the Hedgehog in a Santa Hat Ornament

Intermediate · 9 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 13 pieces in rounds: Head-body ball, Cream face, Snout, Nose, Ear ×2, Cheek ×2, Foot ×2, Santa hat, Pompom, Hanging loop (67 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 10 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 13 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 64 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.4 cm at the widest, 5.4 cm long; 26 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat oval about 4.2 × 2.7 cm; 5 rounds. Worked around a chain, so it is an oval: sew it on with its long side (along the chain) running side to side. The round-start marker is in the middle of a long side (the piece's centre line), while R1 starts at a turn: after R1 shift the round start — sc 2 more (not counted in any round) and place the marker there. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With cream: ch 7.
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 1 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 4 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.7 cm at the widest, 0.9 cm long; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Shape it into a dish: rounds 1–2 are the front of the piece, the magic ring its centre. Push the centre in so the front is concave (about 1.4 mm at the centre) and turn rounds 3–4 to the back: they make a thick rounded rim (about 5.9 mm thick) and lie behind as a second layer; the piece is about 17 mm across.<!-- (dish 50 %) -->

  1. A flat circle about 1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 0.7 cm long; 3 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly only and press it flat to about 4 mm thick.<!-- flattened 50 % -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 3 cm at the widest, 2.2 cm long; 10 rounds.
  2. Change to snow white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R7).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Bend ≈ 30° around round 5<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. Bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces backward on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 5, on the centre back line). On the inner side draw rounds 4 and 6 together (2 rounds go into the fold): with the needle and matching yarn make 3–4 stitches through the loops of both rounds over about 6 st, pull to the angle and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.4 cm at the widest, 1.7 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.5 cm at the widest (lies flat); 2 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in soft gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 16 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Head-body ball is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Cream face → head-body ball. Centre: in round 14, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 10–18 of the head-body ball, about 11 st wide.
    1. Snout → head-body ball. Centre: in round 13, on the centre front line . Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 11–15 of the head-body ball, about 4 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Nose → snout. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its start (the magic ring side); it touches round 1 of the snout (all the way round). It points forward.
    1. Ear → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: between rounds 20 and 21, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Stand the dish on its rim, hollow side forward, and sew it on by the lower arc of the rim — about 3 st of round 4, catching the back layer too; the seam covers rounds 18–20 of the head-body ball, about 1 st wide. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.
    1. Cheek → cream face (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 10 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 2–5 of the cream face, about 4 st wide.
    1. Foot → head-body ball (make 2). Centre: in round 4, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (4 st against 4 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), along the round: rounds 3–5 of the head-body ball, about 3 st wide. It points forward and slightly down.
    1. Santa hat → head-body ball. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Sew around the opening (30 st); the seam covers round 22 of the head-body ball (all the way round). It points up.
    1. Pompom → Santa hat. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 1–3 of the Santa hat (all the way round). It points up. Press it into the base by about 9 mm.
    1. Hanging loop → pompom. Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 2 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 1–2 of the pompom, about 2 st wide. It points up. Press it into the base by about 3 mm.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Embroidered eyes (on the cream face) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in black thread, a oval about 4.4 mm wide and 5.2 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 2 and 3, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left .
    • Eye glint (on the cream face) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in snow white thread over the embroidered eye, a oval about 1.8 mm wide and 1.8 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 2 and 3, 3 st from the centre top line, toward the toy's left , then moved 0.8 mm to the right and 1.3 mm up (looking at the toy's face).
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 12 pieces of yarn (dark brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 9 and 10, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 9 and 10, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 9 and 10, on the centre back line -> between rounds 9 and 10, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 9 and 10, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 14 pieces of yarn (hazel brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 11 and 12, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 11 and 12, 5.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 11 and 12, on the centre back line -> between rounds 11 and 12, 5.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 11 and 12, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 10 pieces of yarn (dark brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 13 and 14, 14.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 13 and 14, 6 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 13 and 14, on the centre back line -> between rounds 13 and 14, 6 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 13 and 14, 14.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 12 pieces of yarn (hazel brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 15 and 16, 14.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 15 and 16, 6 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 15 and 16, on the centre back line -> between rounds 15 and 16, 6 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 15 and 16, 14.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 14 pieces of yarn (dark brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 17 and 18, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 17 and 18, 5.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 17 and 18, on the centre back line -> between rounds 17 and 18, 5.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 17 and 18, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 10 pieces of yarn (hazel brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 19 and 20, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 19 and 20, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre back line -> between rounds 19 and 20, 4.5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> between rounds 19 and 20, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Mane (on the head-body ball): cut 12 pieces of yarn (dark brown, hazel brown) about 34 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along in round 21, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> in round 21, 4 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left -> in round 21, on the centre back line -> in round 21, 4 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's right -> in round 21, 9.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's right , evenly spaced. Trim to about 7 mm.
    • Fringe (on the head-body ball) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): cut 3 pieces of yarn (dark brown) about 32 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 14 and 15, 11 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 15 and 16, 13 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 6 mm.
    • Fringe (on the head-body ball) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): cut 3 pieces of yarn (dark brown) about 32 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 17 and 18, 10 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 18 and 19, 10.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 6 mm.
    • Fringe (on the head-body ball) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): cut 3 pieces of yarn (dark brown) about 32 mm long; fold each in half and attach with a lark's head knot (pull through a stitch with the hook) along between rounds 20 and 21, 7.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left -> between rounds 21 and 22, 9 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left , evenly spaced. Trim to about 6 mm.

    Head-body ball · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
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    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
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    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
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    Weirdness
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    Times crocheted
    0