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Catalog / Animals

Derpy Reindeer Ornament crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 70 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~2 h
Size
7.8 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet reindeer pattern: a Derpy Reindeer Ornament amigurumi, about 8 cm tall in fingering yarn with a 2.0 mm hook. It is a round brown reindeer head with cream antlers, floppy ears, crossed eyes, a big red nose and a tiny tongue, with a gold loop between the antlers. You need about 60 m of yarn: 25 m brown, 15 m beige, 5 m gold, 5 m cream, 5 m red and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 2 hours. Hang it on the tree, a gift bag or a window, or give it to a reindeer fan. Turn the 3D model around and crochet it round by round with the pattern.

How to crochet the Derpy Reindeer Ornament

Intermediate · 8 cm tall · about 2 h · fingering yarn · 2 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 14 pieces in rounds: Head, Muzzle patch, Red nose, Ear ×2, Antler ×2, Antler tine ×4, Cheek ×2, Hanging loop (70 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 9 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 11 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 3 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 2.7 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 33 sc × 37 rounds); yarn about 1.4 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 47 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 5.6 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 25 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. A flat circle about 2.3 cm across; 4 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.2 cm at the widest, 1.2 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  3. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.8 cm at the widest, 2.5 cm long; 10 rounds. Multi-colour rounds are listed stitch by stitch from the round-start marker; keep the round start on the piece's centre front line (as it sits on the finished toy). The order is for right-handed crocheting (right to left on the outside); left-handed: reverse it.
  2. Change to brown (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  3. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff it lightly — a thin layer, just enough to hold the walls apart: the ear about 8 mm thick, with thick rounded edges. Then shape it into a spoon: push the front wall toward the back wall — a concave spoon about 2.1 mm deep in front, a rounded back; about 18 mm wide. Keep the opening a curve, hollow side forward, not a straight line.<!-- (spoon 55 %) -->

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.8 cm at the widest, 3.7 cm long; 14 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done. Bend ≈ 30° around round 9<!-- the bend spreads over 3 rounds -->. After stuffing, bend the piece so the inner side of the bend faces toward the toy's left on the finished toy (on the piece: in round 9, 2 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left <!-- st 1.82 left -->). It is a slight bend: tilt the piece as you sew it on; optionally tack the inner side with 1–2 stitches drawing rounds 8 and 9 together. Bend the second piece as a mirror image.

  1. Size before assembly: about 0.6 cm at the widest, 1.8 cm long; 7 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.1 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.9 cm at the widest, 0.8 cm long; 3 rounds. Each piece is two circles (front and back): make 2 circles — 1 as below and 1 plain in gold (same rounds, no colour changes).
  2. Fasten off. Hold a front and a plain circle wrong sides together and sc around through both layers: 20 sc. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing.

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    1. Head is the base; its magic ring is at the bottom.
    1. Muzzle patch → head. Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 8–14 of the head, about 7 st wide.
    1. Red nose → head. Centre: between rounds 12 and 13, on the centre front line. Sew the piece on by its closed end (last rounds); it touches rounds 12–14 of the head, about 2 st wide. It points forward.
    1. Ear → head (make 2). Centre: in round 21, 7 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (9 st); the seam covers rounds 20–22 of the head, about 3 st wide. Keep the spoon hollow side forward; the opening lies in a curve following the head, both layers sewn down. It points outward.
    1. Antler → head (make 2). Centre: in round 25, 0.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (7 st); the seam covers rounds 24–25 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points up and outward.
    1. Antler tine (no. 1) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 6, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers rounds 5–7 of the antler, about 4 st wide. It points up.
    1. Antler tine (no. 2) → antler (2 — one on each antler). Centre: in round 11, on the centre front line (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew around the opening (5 st); the seam covers round 11 of the antler (all the way round). It points outward and up.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: in round 11, 8 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 9–13 of the head, about 3 st wide.
    1. Hanging loop → head. Centre: at the centre of the last round. Stand the joined double circle on its edge and sew it on by its bottom edge only — about 3 st of the edge; the seam covers rounds 24–25 of the head, about 3 st wide. It points up.

    The whole face is embroidered. Order: the eyes (black satin), then the white glints over them, then the nose and mouth, blush last. Mark the centres with pins first and compare with the picture. Bring thread ends out where a sewn-on piece will cover them, or bury them in the stuffing.

    • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in white thread, a oval about 11 mm wide and 12 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 15 and 16, 3.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Satin stitch (on the head) (2, symmetric: the toy's left side is described, the right is its mirror image): in black thread, a oval about 6 mm wide and 6.5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred between rounds 15 and 16, 2.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left .
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the muzzle patch), straight stitches through: (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 3 and 4, on the centre bottom line) → (between rounds 3 and 4, 1 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 3, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right).
    • Satin stitch (on the muzzle patch): in pink thread, a oval about 4 mm wide and 5 mm tall, horizontal stitches; centred in round 4, on the centre bottom line .

    Head · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0