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Catalog / Animals

Leggy Turtle crochet pattern

  • Mathematically BalancedChecked by script: in all 68 rounds the increases and decreases add up to the stitch count.

by the pattern engine

RemixCrochet it
Animals
Difficulty
2/3
Time
~4 h
Size
13.2 cm
Weirdness
1/5
Crochet itRemix this toy
Download Free Printable PDF

A4 PDF: materials, every round with a tick box, assembly and face

Free crochet turtle pattern: a Leggy Turtle amigurumi, about 13 cm tall in DK yarn with a 2.5 mm hook. A green turtle with a dark green hexagon-plated shell, a round happy face with pink cheeks and a little w-shaped smile, and two very long thin legs ending in orange sneakers with white socks. You need about 105 m of yarn: 30 m light green, 20 m dark green, 25 m green, 10 m cream, 10 m orange, 5 m white and 5 m pink. Plan on roughly 4 hours. This is a good gift for turtle lovers and works as a quirky desk buddy. You can spin the 3D model and follow the round-by-round pattern.

How to crochet the Leggy Turtle

Intermediate · 13 cm tall · about 4 h · DK yarn · 2.5 mm hook

  1. Crochet the 20 pieces in rounds: Shell (top and underside in one piece), Big shell plate ×7, Small shell plate ×6, Head, Tail, Cheek ×2, Long leg ×2 (75 rounds in all).
  2. Stuff and put it together in 9 steps; each one lights up where it goes on the 3D model.
  3. Add the face: safety eyes by round and stitch, or embroider them for a child under 3.

Every round with its stitch count is in the Pattern tab below, and in the free printable PDF.

What you'll need

Tick things off as you gather them.

0 of 12 gathered

Gauge

1 sc ≈ 4 mm wide, 1 round ≈ 3.6 mm tall (10 cm ≈ 25 sc × 28 rounds); yarn about 1.9 mm thick. The gauge sets the size of the toy; crochet tightly so the stuffing does not show.

Worked in

Continuous spiral rounds. Don't join. Move a stitch marker up every round.

Parts

Pattern languageenrudefrDownload Free Printable PDFPDF
0 of 53 rounds done

  1. Size before assembly: about 8.1 cm at the widest, 6.2 cm long; 26 rounds.
  2. Change to cream (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R17).
  3. Change to light green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R21).
  4. → Start stuffing (firmly) and keep adding as you decrease.
  5. Top up the stuffing if needed. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm tail; with the needle weave it through the front loops of all 6 stitches of the last round, pull tight and hide the end inside.

  1. Of these: top — 1; front — 1; side, front — 2 (left and right); side, back — 2 (left and right); back — 1. Flat motif — hexagon (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 3.2 × 2.8 cm; 4 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Of these: lower, front — 2 (left and right); lower, mid — 2 (left and right); lower, back — 2 (left and right). Flat motif — hexagon (worked in rounds, one layer of fabric), about 2.4 × 2.1 cm; 3 rows.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (~30 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff. Weave in the starting tail, pin the motif out to shape on a soft surface and steam it lightly.

  1. Size before assembly: about 4.8 cm at the widest, 4.6 cm long; 15 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Insert the safety nose/eyes now, while the piece is open (positions: see “Face”). Stuff firmly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. Size before assembly: about 1.6 cm at the widest, 1.5 cm long; 5 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

  1. A flat circle about 1.5 cm across; 2 rounds.
  2. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Do not stuff.

  1. Size before assembly: an oval about 3.2 × 2 cm at the widest, 6.8 cm long; 20 rounds. The piece is oval: the rounds go around the chain, and on the finished toy the chain (the long side of the oval) runs front to back; the starting chain is at the bottom of the piece (on the finished toy). The round-start marker is at a turn of the oval, on the piece's centre line; R1 starts there, so no shift is needed. The increases fall on the turns.
  2. With orange: ch 5.
  3. Change to white (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R6).
  4. Change to light green (pull it through on the last yarn-over of R8).
  5. Fasten off leaving a long tail (30–40 cm) for sewing. Stuff lightly just before sewing it on; a little less near the edge, then add a pinch when the seam is nearly done.

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    1. Shell (top and underside in one piece) is the base; its magic ring is at the top.
    1. Big shell plate → shell (top and underside in one piece) — 7 pieces. Pin them over the shell (top and underside in one piece) (rounds 9–10 of the shell (top and underside in one piece)), symmetrically on both sides, checking against the picture of the finished toy, then sew them on one by one. How to sew each - the first one as the example: Centre: at the centre of the magic ring. Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers round 4 of the shell (top and underside in one piece) (all the way round).
    1. Small shell plate (lower, front) → shell (top and underside in one piece) (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–19 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 5 st wide.
    1. Small shell plate (lower, mid) → shell (top and underside in one piece) (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 15 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–19 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 5 st wide.
    1. Small shell plate (lower, back) → shell (top and underside in one piece) (make 2). Centre: in round 16, 5 st from the centre back line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 13–19 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 5 st wide.
    1. Head → shell (top and underside in one piece). Centre: between rounds 19 and 20, on the centre front line. Sew around the opening (30 st); the seam covers rounds 10–21 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 14 st wide. It points forward and slightly up.
    1. Tail → shell (top and underside in one piece). Centre: between rounds 21 and 22, on the centre back line. Sew around the opening (12 st); the seam covers rounds 19–22 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 6 st wide. It points backward.
    1. Cheek → head (make 2). Centre: between rounds 6 and 7, 4.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Sew it flat all round its edge; it covers rounds 5–8 of the head, about 4 st wide.
    1. Long leg → shell (top and underside in one piece) (make 2). Centre: in round 24, 4.5 st from the centre front line, toward the toy's left (the one on the toy's left is described; sew the other as its mirror image). Flatten the opening (5 st against 6 st) and sew it on in a straight line side to side (across the toy), across the rounds: rounds 23–25 of the shell (top and underside in one piece), about 2 st wide. It points down.

    Safety eyes and noses go in before the piece is stuffed and closed (see the pieces above); embroidery is easier before the piece is sewn on.

    • Safety eyes with a printed glint 10–12 mm (on the head): between rounds 4 and 5, 15 st apart (count along round 4: about 7.5 st each side of the centre top line).
    • Embroidery in black thread (on the head), straight stitches through: (in round 4, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (between rounds 4 and 5, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's left ) → (in round 4, on the centre bottom line ) → (between rounds 4 and 5, 0.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, 1.5 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ) → (in round 4, 2 st from the centre bottom line, toward the toy's right ).

    Shell (top and underside in one piece) · R1–R5

    MR××××××VVVVVV×V×V×V×V×V×V×V××V××V××V××V××V××××V×××V×××V×××V×××V×××V
    × scV incΛ dec

    Abbreviations

    MR
    magic ring
    sc
    single crochet
    inc
    2 sc in the same stitch
    dec
    single crochet two stitches together (invisible decrease recommended)
    BLO
    work the round in back loops only
    FLO
    work the round in front loops only
    ch
    chain
    sl st
    slip stitch
    st
    stitch
    R5
    round 5; R7–14 = rounds 7 to 14 are the same
    (…) ×6
    repeat 6 times
    (24)
    stitches in the round when it is done
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0
    Weirdness
    1/5
    Times crocheted
    0